FICO vs VantageScore: credit score ranges and what actually counts
Short answer: both FICO and VantageScore run from 300 to 850. On the FICO scale, 670 to 739 is "good", 740 to 799 is "very good" and 800 and above is "exceptional". Your score is built from five factors: payment history (35%), amounts owed or credit utilization (30%), length of credit history (15%), new credit (10%) and credit mix (10%). You have many scores, not one, because different lenders use different models and different data.
What are the credit score ranges?
| FICO range | Label | What it usually means |
|---|---|---|
| 800 to 850 | Exceptional | Best rates and terms available |
| 740 to 799 | Very good | Qualifies for nearly all offers at strong rates |
| 670 to 739 | Good | Approved for most credit, average to good rates |
| 580 to 669 | Fair | Approvals possible, but higher rates and tighter terms |
| 300 to 579 | Poor | Hard to get credit, or only with high costs or a deposit |
VantageScore uses a similar 300 to 850 scale with slightly different band names, so a score of 700 reads as "good" on both. The labels matter less than the cutoffs lenders set, which differ by product: mortgage pricing can change at every 20-point step, while a basic credit card may approve you at a much lower score.
What goes into your score?
- Payment history, 35%. Paying on time is the single biggest factor. A payment that is 30 or more days late can drop a good score by dozens of points and stays on your report for seven years.
- Amounts owed, 30%. Mostly your credit utilization: card balances divided by card limits. Many people suggest keeping it under 30%, and the highest scores usually show utilization in the single digits. It is measured on your statement date, so paying before the statement closes can help.
- Length of history, 15%. The age of your oldest account and the average age of all accounts. This is why closing your oldest card is rarely a good idea.
- New credit, 10%. Hard inquiries from applications cause a small dip, typically a few points, which fades within a year and drops off your report after two.
- Credit mix, 10%. Having both revolving credit (cards) and installment loans helps a little, but you should never borrow just to improve your mix.
Why do you have several different scores?
There are multiple scoring models (FICO has many versions, as does VantageScore), and each of the three credit bureaus holds slightly different data about you, because not every lender reports to all three. Mortgage lenders have traditionally used older FICO versions, auto lenders use industry-specific versions, and the free scores on card apps are often VantageScore. A 15-point gap between two sources is normal and does not mean anything is wrong. Track the trend and the factors, not any single number.
What changes your score fastest?
- Lower your utilization. Pay balances down or request a credit limit increase (without a hard pull, if possible). This can move a score within one or two billing cycles.
- Never miss a payment. Set up autopay for at least the minimum on every account.
- Fix errors. You can get free reports from all three bureaus at AnnualCreditReport.com and dispute anything wrong. Mistakes are more common than most people expect.
- Keep old accounts open when they have no annual fee.
- Apply sparingly. Space out new applications, and for loans like mortgages or auto, shop within a short window, since multiple inquiries for the same loan type are generally counted together.
For a step-by-step plan, see how to improve your credit score.
What does your score really cost or save you?
Credit scores feed directly into interest rates, and the dollar effect is large on big loans. On a 30-year mortgage, even a quarter-point rate difference between score tiers adds up to tens of thousands of dollars of interest. Credit scores also influence insurance pricing in many states, apartment approvals, and security deposits. That is why a few months of careful habits before applying for a mortgage or car loan can be worth real money. To see how a rate change affects a loan, use our loan rate guide, or the loan payoff report.
Myths worth dropping
- "Checking my own score hurts it." It does not. Only applications for new credit create hard inquiries.
- "Carrying a balance helps my score." It does not. You can pay in full each month and still build credit, and you avoid interest.
- "Income is part of the score." It is not. Lenders look at income separately.
General education, not credit or financial advice. Scoring models change, and the exact point impact of any action varies by person.
Frequently asked questions
What is a good credit score?
On the FICO scale, 670 to 739 is considered good, 740 to 799 very good, and 800 and above exceptional. Many lenders give their best rates above roughly 740, but the cutoffs vary by product.
What is the difference between FICO and VantageScore?
They are two different scoring models that both use a 300 to 850 range. They weigh some factors slightly differently and may treat things like very new accounts or medical collections differently, so your two scores can differ by several points.
What are the five factors in a credit score?
Payment history (35%), amounts owed or credit utilization (30%), length of credit history (15%), new credit (10%) and credit mix (10%), using FICO's published weightings.
Does checking my credit score lower it?
No. Checking your own score or report is a soft inquiry and has no effect. Only applications for new credit create hard inquiries, which can cause a small, temporary dip.
How can I raise my credit score quickly?
Pay down card balances to lower your utilization, never miss a payment, dispute any errors on your reports, and avoid opening several new accounts at once. Lowering utilization often shows results within a billing cycle or two.
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